Cookie Monster

“Dear Lord: The gods have been good to me. For the first time in my life, everything is absolutely perfect just the way it is. So here's the deal: You freeze everything the way it is, and I won't ask for anything more. If that is OK, please give me absolutely no sign. OK, deal. In gratitude, I present you this offering of cookies and milk. If you want me to eat them for you, give me no sign. Thy will be done.”

-  Homer Simpson

I told myself that I would not be posting this weekend, but the thought of holiday cookies has me already in a tizzy.  The list of cookies I will be baking this year, thanks to this blog, is growing by the pound (as will I).  But I think everyone has a holiday cookie recipe that they make every year, and so instead of a real cookie exchange, I am inaugurating the first annual Omnieater Virtual Cookie Exchange.  Send me your cookie recipes and I will compile them all into one large cookie post, to be held around the 2nd week of December.  As per US regulations, I will be an equal opportunity cookie employer.  No cookie should be denied the right to be eaten.

             So bring on the cookie goodness.  Try to be as accurate as possible with ingredients and directions. Pictures and anecdotes are encouraged.  And feel free to test out your own recipe before you send it to me.  Practice, after all, makes perfect.

Happy Thanksgiving

"It's a sign of mediocrity when you demonstrate gratitude with moderation."  - Roberto Benigni (Italian comic and actor) 

Omnieater gives many thanks to all who have helped her start this blog (you know who you are!).  And even more thanks to the people who read it daily.


May your Thanksgiving be filled with love, family and friends (and some leftovers for a midnight snack).

The Norman Hole

“Dessert is probably the most important stage of the meal, since it will be the last thing your guests remember before they pass out all over the table.”

- William Powell (1892-1984), American actor

            The way I see it, Thanksgiving is marathon, not a sprint.  The only way you can consume all that food is through careful strategizing and pacing.  Who wants to throw in the towel at Thanksgiving’s Heartbreak Hill?  That is a tragedy no Thanksgiving should witness, and thus, Omnieater suggests you take “le trou Normand,” or the Norman hole.

            Regardless of what you may be thinking (and if you are thinking that, then you really have a vivid imagination), the Norman hole is nothing to fear.  It simply refers to the French tradition of having a bit of Calvados as a palate cleanser in a multi-course meal.[1]  While I think a nip of Calva is genius, not everyone is into brandy – especially right before dessert.  But this does not mean you shouldn’t have a palate cleanser at Thanksgiving.  Most mouths just go into overdrive at multi-course meals, and everything starts to taste the same.  Save your taste buds from boredom.  Just trou it.

            These days, a trou Normand is a sorbet doused with Calvados.  As mentioned above, brandy is not to everyone’s liking, but I am sure sorbet is.  The key to a good “trou” is in its cleansing abilites – that usually demands some kind of alcohol or acid to counter all the fat lolling about your digestive tract.  Thus, the lemongrass mint sorbet.  It has the acidity needed to clear your plate, but it doesn’t muddle the flavors of Asian cuisine.

            And you’re going to need that trou.  Since I was tired of making pumpkin pie, I thought that a mousse of some sort mousse would be nice.  Pumpkin mousse?  That goes in the same category as the pumpkin latte.  Some things were never intended by god or nature.  Speaking of god, someone or something close to god thought up the chili-chocolate combination.  Although it has become quite trendy in foodie circles to put to the two together, it is for a good reason – it’s damn good.  On the basis of that, I thought I would put together a dark chocolate and chipotle mousse.  If you could have sex in a ramekin – this stuff would be it. 

            On that note, I have to go prepare my own Thanksgiving dinner – otherwise there will be a lot of thanklessness tomorrow night.  Happy Thanksgiving!

Lemongrass Mint Sorbet

Yield: 3 cups

6 stalks of fresh lemongrass stalks, tough outer leaves and root ends discarded

3 c. water

1/2 c. fresh mint, cleaned and dried

1/2 c. sugar

1 lime, juiced

1/2 tsp. salt (use sea salt)

1.     Using the bottom end of a knife, pound the lemongrass stalks flat.  Slice pounded stalks as thinly as possible, discarding any dried parts (usually the top parts of the stem).

2.     Simmer water with lemongrass for 5 minutes in a covered saucepan.  Uncover, and add mint.  Simmer for 1 minute more.  Remove pan from heat, and add sugar, stirring until dissolved.   Cool for 10 minutes.

3.     Puree lemongrass mixture, lime juice and salt in a blender.  Strain mixture through a fine sieve, pressing hard on the solids to extract the most liquid.  Chill syrup, covered, until cold and freeze according to your ice cream maker’s directions.  If you don’t have an ice cream maker, you can freeze the syrup in a bowl until solid and then blend the sorbet in batches in a food processor or blender.  Freeze again in muffin tins (they will form a nice individual servings) and serve.

Dark Chocolate and Chipotle Mousse

            This recipe does not take long, but you can make it up to 2 days ahead of time, with the containers covered with parchment paper or plastic wrap.  I find that the mousse deflates a bit if you make it ahead of time, so if you can, avoid doing so.  If you are making it ahead of time, remember to take out the mouse at least 30 minutes before serving. 

Servings: 8

8 oz. (1/2 pd) of good bittersweet chocolate (up to 70% cacao), chopped (see note)

6 tbs. unsalted butter (3/4 stick), cut into tbs.

3 large eggs, separated (see note)

1 tbs. Grand Marnier

1 c. very cold heavy cream

1/8 tsp. salt (sea salt)

1 tsp. chipotle powder (see note)

1.     Melt chocolate and butter in a large metal bowl over a saucepan of barely simmering water, stirring gently until smooth and completely melted. Remove from heat.

2.     Meanwhile, beat egg yolks until it forms a ribbon, about 2 to 4 minutes.  Mix yolks, Grand Marnier and chipotle powder into melted chocolate until combined and cool mixture until warm.

3.     Beat cream in a medium bowl until it holds stiff peaks.

4.     With clean (any trace of fat will prevent your whites from beating properly) beaters, beat whites with salt in a clean bowl until it holds soft peaks.

5.     Gently fold whipped cream, beaten whites into the chocolate mixture until thoroughly combined.  Serve immediately.

Note: This recipe uses raw eggs and therefore there is a risk of salmonella.  If you are not comfortable with this, then you are better off making something else for dessert. I recommend either Valrhona, Scharffen Berger or Callebaut for the bittersweet chocolate.  When you have so few ingredients, Hersheys is not going to cut it.   Chipotle powder can be found at Latino grocers, specialty markets, and at Penzeys Spices.

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[1] I haven’t really sussed out the history behind “le trou Normand,” but I’m assuming it has to do with the region in which Calvados is produced (Normandy).  As to why it’s a “hole,” I will venture a guess:  once you’ve hit this point in a meal, you’re in deep.  Probably completely off base, but it was worth a shot.

Bring Me Your Poor Huddled Masses

“It is easy to love the people far away. It is not always easy to love those close to us. It is easier to give a cup of rice to relieve hunger than to relieve the loneliness and pain of someone unloved in our own home. Bring love into your home for this is where our love for each other must start.”

- Mother Teresa (1910-1997)

           

           Omnieater is tired.  In a fit of fashion-frenzy, I decided to wait overnight at H&M for Lanvin, but in my sleep-deprived haze, I saw Emma Lazarus. "Give me your tired, your poor, / Your huddled masses yearning to breathe free…”  I was the poor huddled mass freezing in a 35°F degree rainstorm.  I wanted my mommy.  I wanted... rice porridge...ummmmm

            For the full Asian Thanksgiving experience, you gotta have rice.  I think they take away your Asian license if you don’t. Actually, rice should be THE Thanksgiving food.  Most of the world’s population has rice-based cuisine.  I don’t know if the Pilgrims had stuffing, but from my readings of Colonial history, bread wasn’t happening.  Neither were potatoes (potatoes are of South American origin).  Wild rice, however, was probably around.  And if it’s rice you want, rice we have.  Long grain, medium, or short grain. Sweet or plain. Black, red, brown and white. Jasmine, Basmati, Tex-mati, Japonica, Arborio, Carnaroli, Valencia, wild (which isn’t even really a “rice,” biologically speaking)…on and on.

            So instead of the usual bread based stuffing for Thanksgiving, I’m making a sticky rice stuffing.  Most of the ingredients are readily available at Asian grocery stores.   Sticky rice requires overnight soaking, but that is all the advance work you need to do.  The rest of the recipe can be made Thanksgiving morning. 

            And what is a Thanksgiving without cranberries?  But instead of some gelatinous glop, I am making the Kim family cranberry relish – cranberry relish with ginger and wasabi.   It will clear anyone’s sinuses.

            And regarding Thanksgiving, Mother Theresa was right.  It is hard to bring love into one’s home.  But you can always start with a cup of rice.

Sticky Rice Stuffing

            Sticky rice is a short-grained rice, akin to sushi rice (but NOT sushi rice).  It is often called glutinous rice or sweet glutinous rice and can be found in most East Asian/Southeast Asian grocery stores.  There is also black or white glutinous rice.  You can use either for this recipe, even though the black looks more dramatic - and I like drama.

Servings: 8 cups (enough for a 12 –14 pd. turkey and a little more)
3 c. sticky rice

10 dried Chinese black or shitake mushrooms

4 Chinese sausages, diced

1 c. of roasted chestnuts, roughly chopped (you can find these vacuum-packed in Asian grocery stores)

2 tbs. neutral vegetable oil

1 tbs. ginger, minced

2 cloves garlic, minced

1/3 c. rice wine (You can also use Mirin or dry sherry)

1 tbs. soy sauce

1 tbs. oyster sauce

2 tsp. toasted sesame oil

2 c. stock (vegetable, chicken or turkey are all fine)

salt and freshly ground pepper (white pepper if you have it)

chopped scallions and/or fried shallots (condiment often used in Vietnamese cooking)

1.     Soak rice in cold water, with about an inch to cover.  Soak for 6 hours or overnight. 

2.     Next morning, soak mushrooms with hot water for at least 30 minutes.  When softened, coarsely chop mushrooms, omitting stems (the stems are too tough to eat).

3.     Drain rice and rinse with cold water.

4.     In a Dutch oven or heavy stockpot, heat oil over medium high heat.  Stir-fry garlic and ginger, until fragrant, but not browned.  Add sausages and sauté until slightly browned.  Add rice and sauté until rice is coated with grease.  Add mushrooms and briefly stir-fry. 

5.     Add stock, wine, soy and oyster sauces, sesame oil, and pepper.  Adjust seasonings (you can either use more soy sauce or salt for this).  Stir thoroughly and add chestnuts.  Bring to a simmer.

6.     Once simmering, turn heat to low, and cover pot.  Allow rice to cook, undisturbed (no peeking!) for 20 minutes.  After 20 minutes, rice should be fully cooked, but if it seems dry, add some water or stock to the pot. 

7.     Stuff into turkey and roast accordingly.  If not stuffing into turkey, remove pot from heat, stir rice gently, replace lid and sit for 10 minutes more.

8.     Serve with chopped scallions and/or fried shallots.  Turkey gravy ain’t bad either.

Ginger-Wasabi Cranberry Relish

            If you have an old-school food grinder, this is a great recipe.  You can also use a Kitchen-Aid mixer with a food grinder attachment or a food processor.  If you do use a food processor, do not over-process, otherwise you get mush.  Also, you can adjust both the sweetness and the spiciness to your liking.  My family likes it with almost no sugar and all heat, but then again, we’re Koreans. 

Yield: about 21/2 cups

2 c. washed raw cranberries

1 skinned and cored tart apple (granny smith is fine for this, but try to go local)

2 in. chunk of raw ginger, peeled and coarsely chopped

1 to 2 c. sugar (see note)

1 tsp. or more of prepared wasabi (see note)

1/2 tsp. salt

1.     Grind together cranberries, apple and ginger in a food grinder.  If using a food processor, pulse ginger to a fine mince first, then add cranberries and apple.  Do not over-process.

2.     Mix in sugar and salt.  Use 1 c. to start and add more to taste.  Mix in wasabi.  Start with 1 teaspoon and add more to taste.

3.     Let mixture rest for 45 minutes or until the sugar dissolves completely in the relish.  Refrigerate until ready to use.

Note:   I usually use brown sugar (any kind is OK), because I like how the caramel/molasses notes balance the spiciness and acidity of the relish.  But regular granulated sugar is fine as well.

Venerable Vegetables

“Only vegetables are happy.”

-  William Faulkner (1897-1962), American writer

Everyone has his/her own favorite Thanksgiving dishes.   Dark meat v. White meat.  Stuffing hogs. Mashed potato mountains. Pie-a-holics.  I am the girl that eats all the vegetables, leaving the rest of my family to fight it out for the stuffing. I am not the ghost of vegetable past.  I just like my veggies.  Dark green leaves, such as kale or Swiss chard, are bitter if eaten in the summer.  The frost allows for the sugars to develop in these greens.  Mushrooms are in their full glory.  Cruciferous vegetables – broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower – can all be eaten a number of ways.  More veg for me please.

            This is not to suggest that I am some low-fat, low-calorie health nut. Vegetables need some fat to balance out their acidity and greenness.  But it doesn’t have to be some cream-of-whatever-it-is disaster or a duvet of cheese.  Like anything else, vegetables, if cooked properly, can be the undiscovered understudy of Thanksgiving.  You just have to give them a chance.

            One of the ways one can do this is by roasting vegetables.  Roasting caramelizes sugars inherent in vegetables (yes, there are sugars in vegetables) and makes them a whole new eating experience.  Also, not overcooking your vegetables would help. You would be surprised how many people think that an overcooked vegetable is the only way to prepare vegetables.  No wonder why kids hate them.

            The dishes here have made avowed vegetable haters into vegetable maybes.  They need to get their vitamins and minerals from somewhere.  They might as well start here.

Roast Cauliflower with Yogurt and Mint

            This can be made a day ahead.  Just remember to make the yogurt right before serving.  This can easily be doubled, even though you may have to roast the cauliflower in batches.

Servings: 4

For Cauliflower:

1/4 plus 1 tbs. extra-virgin olive oil

1 tsp. ground coriander

1 tsp. ground fennel seed

1/4 tsp. ground cumin

1/2 of any good curry powder

1/2 tsp. salt

1 head of cauliflower, cut into medium florets

1 onion, chopped

2 tbs. chopped flat-leaf parsley

Yogurt Dressing

1/2 c. Greek Yogurt (full-fat)

1 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil

zest and juice of 1 lemon

1/2 tsp. chopped mint

salt to taste

1.     Preheat oven to 450ºF.  In a large bowl, thoroughly mix 1/4 c. of olive oil, salt and all the spices.  Toss the florets to coat.  Spread florets on a heavy baking sheet (try to keep them separated) and roast for 15 minutes, flipping florets over halfway through roasting.  They are ready when barely tender and browned in spots. (You can do this 1-2 days ahead, with the florets stored in the fridge.  Just bring them to room temperature before you continue the recipe.)

2.     Blend yogurt, olive oil, lemon zest and juice in a small bowl.  Stir in mint and season to taste with salt.

3.     Heat 1 tbs. of olive oil in a non-stick skillet over medium heat.  Sauté onions until soft and translucent, but not browned, about 6-8 minutes.

4.     Remove skillet from heat and add florets.  Mix to combine.  Add parsley and toss again.

5.     Distribute yogurt dressing among 4 plates.  Pile cauliflower on top.  Serve immediately.

Green Beans Tricolore

            I know, I know.  This has nothing to do with Southeast Asia.  But this dish has a reputation on 4 continents (and Antarctica is not one of them), and it always requested at dinner parties.  I had yet to give out the recipe, until this bloody blog thing started.  I am now obligated to share.  To Christian and Sophie: I hope you two are happy now.  And Christian, you now owe me a box of Ladurée macaroons – Fed Ex please!

Servings: 6

1 pound of green beans (haricot verts, if you can get them), washed and trimmed

2 shallots, minced

1/2 pd. tomatoes, chopped (use grape or cherry tomatoes this time of year)

1 tsp. honey

salt and freshly ground pepper

5 tbs. walnut oil (see note)

2 tbs. balsamic vinegar

1.     Boil a large pot of water with a pinch of salt.  Blanch green beans briefly (1/2 minute for haricot verts, 1 minute for regular green beans) in boiling water and immediately drain, rinsing with cold water to stop cooking. Reserve.

2.     In a small bowl, whisk honey, walnut oil and vinegar.  Add salt and pepper to taste.

3.     In a large bowl, add green beans, tomatoes and shallots.  Toss with dressing.  Add additional salt and pepper, if needed.

Note:  Walnut oil, or huile de noix can be found at specialty stores, such as Whole Foods, Dean & Deluca, or Balducci’s.  It’s somewhat pricey, but a little goes a long way.  Remember to store it in the refrigerator because it turns rancid quickly once opened.

The Spice Route to Thanksgivingness

“Once you get a spice in your home, you have it forever. Women never throw out spices. The Egyptians were buried with their spices. I know which one I'm taking with me when I go.”

- Erma Bombeck (1927-1996), American humorist

As promised, here are 2 of the starters for the Omnieater’s Ultimate Thanksgiving.  The munchies are a riff on some of my favorite candies.  Many Mexican candies are akin to a bazooka on your tongue: an explosion of spicy, salty, sweet and sour.  In Southern California, you can easily buy paletas, or lollipops, in crazy mad flavors like tamarind chili and salty mango.  They were addictive.  And so are the spiced nuts I have made based upon them.  Make 2 batches.  They go quick.

            As for the soup, I once again went the spice route, but via India. Even thought in the Halloween post, I promised myself not to do soup with squash, but like Snooki and the perma-tan, they are made for each other.  The soup is a nice antidote to many squash soup recipes not only because of the subtle spiciness, but also because of the lack of cream.  All your lactose intolerant friends will rejoice.

            And the best part of all of this?  You can make this all ahead of time, so you can do the things you want to do on Thanksgiving, such as hanging out with your friends and family.  Unless you don’t have any friends and you hate your family…

Spiced Nuts

            You can use whatever chili powder you have on hand, but I recommend these, either separately or in combination: chipotle (smoked-dried jalapeño, very hot), ancho (smoked-dried poblano, mild), Pimentón de la Vera, Picante (smoked spicy Spanish paprika), Piment d’Espelette (a French/Basque variety of Pimentón de la Vera).  If you want to boost your SHU’s – Scoville Heat Units – feel free to add a pinch of cayenne or any other hot dried chili pepper (Thai Bird’s Eye, etc.).  You can make these a week ahead of time, and store in an air-tight container. 

Nonstick vegetable oil spray (or a silicone baking sheet, i.e. Silpat)

3 tbs. sugar

1/2 tbs. water

1/2 tbs. fresh squeezed lemon juice

zest of one lemon (if waxed, rinse in hot water and dry before zesting)

1 tsp. salt (Maldon, sea salt, Fleur de sel are all good choices)

1 c. whole almonds

2 tsp. chili powder (see above)

1.     Preheat your oven to 325ºF.  Line a heavy baking sheet with foil and coat with non-stick spray (or just use your silicone baking sheet). 

2.     Combine sugar, zest, salt and chili powder in a bowl.  Add almonds, lemon juice and water to bowl.  Stir to combine thoroughly.

3.     Spread mixture on baking sheet. Bake, stirring often, until the almonds are a golden brown and glazed, about 20-25 minutes (last 5 minutes, watch carefully, otherwise the sugar will burn).

4.     Separate almonds as best you can.  Cool completely and serve.

Coconut Curry Red Kuri Soup

            If you can’t get Red Kuri squash, you can use whatever orange-fleshed winter squash you can find, such as Hoikado, Hubbard, Kobacha etc.  If you can, avoid butternut squash.  I find it watery and bland.  As for the garam masala, you can easily find it in Indian grocery stores, but I think it is worth the effort to make your own.  Spices lose their pungency over time, and you have no idea when those spices last saw a human face. The recipe for a basic garam masala follows the soup recipe.  (I say basic, because there are many variations on the amount and kind of spices used.)  Use it whenever you want a spice kick to your meal. One more thing – you can easily make this a vegan recipe, by swapping the chicken broth with vegetable broth.

           

Servings:  About 12 cups

31/2 pd. of Red Kuri squash

vegetable oil

white and pale green parts of 3 large/4 medium leeks, cleaned and chopped (see note)

1 medium onion, chopped

2 tbs. unsalted butter

11/2 in. chunk of fresh ginger, peeled and grated

3 cloves of garlic, minced

11/2 –2 tsp. of garam masala (recipe to follow)

4 c. chicken (or vegetable) broth, preferably homemade

21/2 c. water

2 c. of coconut milk (you will need two cans)

salt and pepper

bunch of fresh coriander, finely chopped

1.     Heat your oven to 350ºF.  Line a heavy baking sheet with foil and coat with oil.  Split squash in two, and seed.  Place the squash halves onto foil, with the cut side down.  Bake for 45-50 minutes, until squash is soft when pierced with a fork.  (If you don’t have a squash that weighs about 3-4 pounds, just make do with 2 smaller ones.  Just remember to reduce the time in the oven.) Take out of oven and cool.

2.     When the squash is cool enough to handle, scoop out flesh of squash and reserve in a bowl.  Take a heavy stock pot or Dutch oven and warm butter over medium-high heat.

3.     When foaming subsides, sauté chopped leeks and onion over medium heat until softened, but not browned.  Add ginger, garlic and garam masala to pot and sauté until fragrant, about 1 minute or less.  Add squash flesh and quickly toss to combine flavors.  Immediately add vegetable stock and water and simmer covered for about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.

4.     Add coconut milk and simmer for about 3 minutes.  Take off heat, and cool slightly.  Either with an immersion blender or a regular blender (it’s hot, so be careful not to splatter), blend soup until smooth.  (At this point, you can make the soup 2 days ahead of time and just reheat before serving.  Add some more water if the soup seems too thick).

5.     Reheat if necessary.  Season with salt and pepper.  Serve immediately with chopped coriander sprinkled on top.

 Note:  To clean leeks (they have a lot of dirt and sand trapped in their layers), chop the leeks first.   Rinse them thoroughly with water in a colander, or use a salad spinner.

Garam Masala

4 tbs. coriander seeds

1 tbs. cumin seeds

1 tbs. black peppercorns

11/2 tsp. black cumin seeds (shajeera)

11/2 ground ginger

3/4 tsp. black cardamom (3-4 pods)

3/4 tsp. whole cloves

2 1 in. sticks of cinnamon

2 bay leaves

1.     Heat a skillet over medium heat and toast all ingredients, except for ground ginger, until a few shades darker.  Do not raise heat to hasten the process, because the seeds will burn without toasting properly.  Take off burner and cool.

2.     Remove the cardamom pods to release the seeds inside.  Discard the pods.  Take all the spices, including the ground ginger, and grind either in a clean coffee grinder or a mortar and pestle.

3.     Store in an air-tight container in a cool, dry place.